DETAILED ITINERARY WITH COMMENTARY
FOR FOOTSTEPS OF THE BUDDHA:

"Among all creatures I am the first and foremost to cross the riddle of the ocean of existence. I have come to the world to show the path of emancipation. This is my last birth and hereafter I will not be born again".

-The Buddha Shakyamuni

Day 1 Train from DELHI to PATNA

Patna:

     Patna, the state capital of Bihar, situated on the banks of the Ganga is a major entry point for pilgrims wishing to travel in the footsteps of the Buddha. Patna is well connected by air, rail and road to Calcutta, Delhi, Mumbai and Varanasi.

Bihar:

     Bihar derives its name from vihara, meaning Buddhist monastery, as there were once a number of Buddhist monasteries in Bihar. Bodh Gaya, Rajgir and Nalanda in the south and Vaishali in the north, formed a significant part of the Buddhakshetra or the domain of the Great Master's spiritual pursuits.

Pataligram:

     As the Lord traversed the dusty plains, spreading his message, he had to cross the mighty river Ganga and a small town that stood on its banks, Pataligram. It commanded the river traffic providing endless trade opportunities. The Magadha monarchs decided to move their capital here, from neighbouring Rajgir in the 6th century BC. King Ajatashatru stated building a for here which the Buddha saw in his last days and he made a prophecy-that of all the famous places, busy marts and centres of commerce, Pataligram will be the greatest, but three dangers will threaten it always- fire, flood and feud. It holds true even today.

     The humble Pataligram blossomed into Pataliputra, the mighty capital of the Magadha Empire. From the 6th century BC to the 4th century AD, under the two major dynasties, the Mauryas and Guptas, Pataliputra reached its zenith.
     Foreign emissaries like Megasthenes from Greece and Chinese scholar pilgrims like Fa Hien, recount the architectural grandeur and material prosperity of this great city. 
What brought far more enduring renown to Pataliputra and to the Mauryan Empire was Emperor Ashoka (260 BC - 239 BC) who spread the Master's message of peace and non-violence, compassion and love, far and wide. The third Buddhist Council was held in Pataliputra under his patronage.

     A massive flood in the river Sonebhadra in the later half of the 6th century AD and subsequent Hun invasions devastated the city. In the 16th century, under the Afghan king, Sher Shah Suri, it partly regained its lost glory. In the 19th century it came under the political suzerainty of the British who gave it the trapping of a typical colonial township and renamed it Patna.

VAISHALI

Vaishali:

     Five years after the Enlightenment in Bodh Gaya, Lord Buddha came to Vaishali, the capital of one the first republican states in the Ganga, Vaishali is bound by the hills of Nepal on the north and the river Gandak on the west. 
The Lichchavi nobility came to receive the Enlightened One with a cavalcade of elephants and chariots bedecked with gold. As the Lord set foot on the soil of Vaishali, lightning and thunder followed by a heavy downpour purged the plague-infected city. The Buddha preached the Ratna Sutra to those assembled, and eighty-four thousand people embraced the new faith.

For the first women were ordained into the Sangha:

     The Buddha's foster mother, Mahaprajapati Gautami, along with 500 Sakyan women made a pilgrimage by foot from Kapilavastu (in Nepal) to Vaishali, seeking to join the Order. Three times the Lord refuses their entreaties. Ultimately they shaved their heads, donned the orange robes and beseeched the Lord once again. The Enlightened One was finally persuaded to admit the women as bhikshunis or nuns.

     Vaishali is linked to Patna, 60 kms away, by the 5.5kms long Mahatma Gandhi Bridge across the Ganga. Leaving the crowded market place of this small district town, the metalled road leads to the village of Basarh, which the British archaeologist, Alexander Cunnigham, identified as the ancient Vaishali. There is no local transport and visitors are advised to take their own vehicles for sightseeing.

Kutagarshala:

     Kutagarshala Vihara is 3 kms from the main town. It was built by the Lichchavis for Sakhamuni. Known as Buddha Stupa 2, this site has revealed extensive remains of a monastery with an open courtyard and verandah. A large tank and the Kutagarshala Chaitya can be seen in the south.

     It was at Kutagarshala Vihara that a monkey took the Lord's alms bowl and climbed a tree to gather honey for him. The Buddha accepted his humble offering and the monkey in great joy, leaping from tree to tree, accidentally fell and was impaled on the stump of a tree. Dying a noble death, the monkey went to heaven. Kutagarshala Vihara is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm. Entry fee Rs 2.

     Among the precious archaeological finds is the relic casket containing the ashes of the Buddha now preserved in the Patna Museum. In the north is the Ashoka Pillar with a bell capital and large brick stupa, originally built by the Emperor to mark the site where the site where Buddha delivered his last discourse.

Amrapali:

     It was also at Vaishali that Amrapali, the famous courtesan, earned the respect of the Sangha and a place in history, with her generous donations. The neighbouring village of Amvara is said to be the site of Amrapali's mango grove. Once when the Lord was visiting Vaishali, Amrapali invited him to her house and the Lord graciously accepted the offer. An overjoyed Amrapali, returning on her chariot, raised a cloud of dust. The Lichchavi princes going to meet the Buddha got enveloped in the dust and learnt of the Buddha's forthcoming visit to her house. The Lichchavi princes wanted to exchange Amrapali's honour for one hundred thousand gold coins. Amrapali steadfastly refused their offer and after the Buddha's visit to her house she was purged of all impurities. She gifted her mango grove to the Sangha. Amrapali joined the order after realising the transitory nature of all things, including beauty.

His last sermon:

     Vaishali is also renowned as the place where the Buddha delivered his last sermon. Following a severe illness, the Master asked Ananda to assemble all the bhikshus. The Enlightened One told the gathering that the Mahaparinirvana (final extinction) was imminent. The Great Master asked the monks to spread the Dharma in order to bring about the good and happiness of many.

     Going back to the town, a little way off the main road, can be seen the ruins of the mythical King Vishala's fort, from which Vaishali derived its name. Vaishali also finds mention in the Hindu epic, Ramayana.

Abhishek Pushkarini:

     A kilometre away is Abhishek Pushkarini, the coronation tank. The sacred waters of the tank anointed the elected representatives of Vaishali. Next to it stands the Japanese temple and the Vshwa Shanti Stupa (World Peace Pagoda) built by the Nipponzan Myohoji sect of Japan. A small part of the Buddha's relics found in Vaishali have been enshrined in the foundation and in the chhatra of the Stupa.

     Near the coronation tank is Stupa 1 or the Relic Stupa. Here the Lichchavis reverentially encased on of the eight portions of the Master's relics, which they received after the Mahaparinirvana.

Day 3,4,5,6,7 RAJGIR RETREAT

Rajgir:

     The meandering river Banganga and five hills ensconce picturesque Rajgir, ancient Rajgriha (literally, the abode of kings). During the lifetime of the Buddha this was the capital of the powerful Magadhan kingdom, ruled by the virtuous king Bimbisara. The hills and caves surrounding Rajagriha were home to spiritual teachers, ranging from the materialism of the early Charavaka School to the metaphysics of Upanishadic philosophers. Like many others in search of Truth, Prince Siddhartha, after he renounced his royal heritage came to this city to seek the path of salvation.

Vulture Peak:

     Off the main road, towards the south are the venerated Griddhakuta Hill, or Vulture Peak, and Ratnagiri. The metalled road follows the path originally laid by Bimbisara as a footway through the jungle.

     The Vishwa Shanti Stupa is a marble structure with niches bearing golden images of the Buddha, built by the Nipponza Myohoji sect of Japan. Opposite the Stupa stands the Saddharma Buddha Vihara.

Griddhakuta:

     A fifteen minute walk from Vishwa Shanti Stupa leads to Griddhakuta, sanctified by the Master's presence. The strange rock protrusion resembling a vulture's beak probably gave the hill its name. In the rock cut caves here the Buddha spent many rainy seasons, meditating and preaching.

     It was at Griddhakuta that the Enlightened One delivered the Lotus Sutra, which promises salvation for all beings. At the hearts of these sutra is the compassion of the Buddha whose concern is with attain Enlightenment, whoever may have folded their hands of uttered name of the Buddha.

     The Buddha also delivered the Prajnaparamita or Perfection of Wisdom Sutra at Griddhakuta.

     The easy climb down from Griddhakuta Hill crosses the site of Mardakukshi Vihara. It was queen tried to get rid of her unborn child when it was prophesied that her son would one day kill his father. The Enlightened one was first brought here when he was wounded by a rock hurled by his envious consin Devadatta. Along the road to the new town built by Ajatashatru are the ruins of Jivakamravana Vihara, the mango grove presented to the Buddha by Jivaka, the royal physician, who cared for the Lord after he was injured by Devadatta. Stone foundations of large elliptical halls and subsidiary rooms suggest the existence of a large monastery.

Ajatshatru embraces the faith:

     Across the road are the remains of the jail where Bimbisara was imprisoned and killed by his son, Ajatashatru. From here the unfortunate king could see the Master as he meditated on Griddhakuta. Ajatashatru, along with Devadatta, had conspired to take the life of the Lord by letting loose a mad elephant. But the Lord tamed the wild elephant. But the Lord tamed the wild elephant which stood still, overcome by the Lord's serene visage. After killing his father, Ajatashatru was filled with remorse and later embraced the faith.

     A couple of kilometres away is Venuvana Vihara or the Monastery of the Bamboo Grove. This was Bimbisara's first offering to Lord Buddha. Close by is the Karanda Tank where the Buddha bathed.

     On the road leading to Nalanda can be seen the ruins of Ajatashatru Fort. Towards the west, excavations have revealed the ruins of Ajatashatru Stupa, built over his share of the relics of the Buddha. Rajagriha sank into oblivion when Ajatashatru's son, Udayin, shifted the capital to Pataliputra (modern Patna).

     Rajgir is also famous for its seven hot sulphur springs, Satadhara. Situated at the foot of Vaibhava Hill it is a ten minute walk from Venuvana. The hot springs are a part of the Lakshminarayan Temple complex.

     On the hills above are the Pippala caves, hewn into the stone platform, popularly known as Jarasandh ki Baithak after the mythical Hindu king Jarasandh. A rocky path from Pippala caves leads to the seven caves of Saptaparni, where the First Buddhist Council was held to codify the teachings of the Great Master.

Day 6 NALANDA

Nalanda:

     Silence reigns supreme, gradually the early morning sun lifts the mantle of darkness in its golden light, the scores of ruined red brick buildings set amongst lush green lawns appear almost ethereal, These is no sign of life today except for a few curious visitors. But once the place throbbed with life, its corridors reverberated with eager voices engrossed in the pursuit of knowledge.

Nalanda, the most renowned university in ancient India:

     It derived its name from Na-alam-da, meaning Insatiable in Giving, one of the names by which the Lord Buddha was known. Today it is identified with modern Baragaon village and is 90kms southeast of Patna and only 11kms from Rajgir. It is 80kms from Bodh Gaya and is easily accessible by well-maintained highways.

     The monastic university, Nalanda Mahavihara, was a magnificent architectural structure. An inscription of King Yashovarman of 7th century AD describes Nalanda as "rows of monasteries with their series of turrets licking the clouds."

Sariputra - The disciple:

     The Buddha came to Nalanda often and stayed at Setthi Pavarika's mango grove. Two of Sakyamuni's chief disciples, Sariputra and Maudgalyayana, came from the vicinity of Nalanda. Sariputra, who was considered the foremost in wisdom and had a very important place in the Sangha, attained Nirvana here. Emperor Ashoka came to Nalanda to worship at the chaitya of Sariputra and built another temple over the existing shrine. Fa Hien mentions having seen this stupa.

The first Mahavihara:

     It was at this sanctified site that the Mahavihara was first established in the reign Emperor Kumargupta in the 5th century AD, a tradition carried forward by his successors in the Gupta dynasty. During the reign of Devapala in the beginning of the 9th century, Nalanda reached its zenith of fame and glory. Emissaries from around the world came with rich presents and generous donations to Nalanda, as they did to other contemporary Buddhist universities like Odantapuri, a stone's throw away from Nalanda, and Vikramshila, in Bhagalpur district of Bihar.

In the thirst for dharma:

     Scholars converged on this blessed place, once traversed by the Buddha, thirsting for Dharma. Hiuen Tasang and later his disciple Hwui Li, who studied at this great institution in the 6th and 7th centuries, have left behind detailed descriptions. Admission was extremely coveted and only two out of ten eminent scholars were admitted.

     The art of debate (vada) and public speaking and secular subjects like mathematics and medicine were taught here. Doctrinal points were continually debated and debating was a necessary part of monastic education. Among the renowned Indian scholars trained at Nalanda were Nagarjuna, Aryadeva and Asanga. Santarakshita, and thereafter Padmasambhava, went to Tibet from Nalanda to spread the teaching of Sakyamuni. A massive fire, schisms between the different Buddhist sects and the resurgence of devotional Hinduism pushed Nalanda to the brink of destruction. Its final nemesis came with the Muslim invader Bakhtiyar Khalji who brutally wiped it off the map. A few valuable manuscripts were able to flee from the onslaught.

Nalanda - A world Heritage site:

     Excavations in the 1860s by Alexander Cunningham led to the discovery of the official seal with the inscriptions Sri Nalanda Magavihara Arya Bhikshu Sanghasya (Venerable Community of Monks in the Great Vihara of Sri Nalanda.)

     Nalanda is spread out over an area of 14 hectares and has the ruins of 11 monasteries and 5 temples. Stone paved pathways criss-cross the entire site. Sariputra's Stupa is the most imposing structure standing in the south, a few minutes walk from the main gate. This large stupa was built over the mortal remains of Sariputra. Its corner towers display niches holding well modelled stucco figures of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas. A flight of steps leads to the shrine chamber which once housed a colossal image of Lord Buddha.

     The monastic remains show a number of small cells with wide verandahs in the front, set around open quadrangular courts. Each complex had a main shrine housing a large figure of the Buddha. Huge ovens were also excavated suggesting that there was a common kitchen for students.

     The Archaeological Survey of India maintains the Nalanda Museum across the road which houses some exquisite bronzes of the 9th and 10th centuries, Pala dynasty, and other remains excavated at the site.

Day 7 BODHAGAYA

Bodhgaya:

     Bodh Gaya (once Uruvela village) is the place where, 2500 years ago, in the 6th century BC, a young ascetic, Siddhartha, attained enlightenment to become the Buddha, and found Buddhism, one of the world's oldest religions. Born into the ruling family of the Sakyas, Siddhartha had renounced his royal heritage, and since then had faced many hardships in his search for Truth. He came to Bodh Gaya looking for a quiet retreat where he could meditate upon the causes for human suffering.

     Siddhartha spread Kusha grass beneath the Bodhi or Bo tree (Pipal tree, botanical name Ficus religiosia) and sat cross-legged facing the east with a vow to get up only if he attained supreme knowledge. For 7 weeks, Mara, the temptor, assaulted him with his weapons of flood, fire, thunder and lightening. Then Mara's three beautiful daughters tried to allure him, but in vain. Siddhartha entered deeper states of contemplation. His quest finally ended at dawn on Vaisakha Poornima, the full moon day in April-May, when the kind daughter of the village chief of Senani, Sujata, brought him a bowl of kheer (sweet thickened milk). It is said that the gods had infused the kheer with ambrosia. Siddhartha attained Samma Sambodhi, the Enlightenment that he had been seeking for so long. He was no more a seeker ?he had become the Buddha.

     As the place of the Buddha's Enlightenment, Bodh Gaya is the spiritual home of Buddhists. Located in Bihar, 115kms from Patna, the land is rich and fertile, dotted with green fields and watered by the river Phalgu - the same ancient Nairanjana river where the Buddha bathed after attaining enlightenment. A range of low forested hills silhouette the small hamlets flanking the glistening, sandy banks of the river. Monks and nuns rub shoulders with tourists and believers from all over the world. An all-pervading calm envelops the town, giving visitors a sense of peace.

Day 8 & 9 VARANASI / SARNATH

Varanasi:

     The city of Shiva on the banks of the sacred Ganges with a population of 2 million is one of the holiest places in India. Hindu pilgrims come to bathe in the waters of the Ganges in the belief of cleansing oneself by washing away one's sins. In the past, the city had been known as Kashi or Benares. However, the present name is a restoration of the old name meaning the city between two rivers the Varuna and the Assi. The chief attraction of Varanasi is the ghats lining the western bank of the river Ganges. Most are used for bathing but there are also several burning ghats where bodies are cremated. Dawn is the best time to visit the ghats when the river is battled in magical morning light and pilgrims come to worship the rising sun.

Sarnath:

     After Sakyamuni gained Enlightenment under the Bodhi tree on the banks of the Nairanjana river, he walked for over 250 kms from Bodh Gaya, crossed the Ganga crossed the Ganga by ferry to reach the ghats of Kashi. He was searching for the five companions who had abandoned him at Rajgir. The five ascetics deserted him when Gautama forsook the path of self-mortification because they felt that spiritual salvation was not possible through any other means.

     The Buddha found the five ascetics at a deer park in the outskirts of the city. The park was called Rishipattana or Issipattana after the rishis of sages who come to meditate under its shady trees. Its other name was Mrigadaya or deer sanctuary, because a king of Varanasi had gifted the land as a safe haven for deer. The modern name of Sarnath is derived from the name of the Bodhisattva, Saranganatha.

     The blessed one met his old companions who were the first to hear him unfold his path to Enlightenment path and the Middle Way. This first sermon is called Dharmachakrapravartana , or Turning of the wheel of Law.

The Sangha:

     At Sarnath the Buddha founded the Sangha with his five old companions as his first disciples. It was also here that Yasa, the son of a rich merchant of Kashi, renounced his life of worldly pleasures to become Sakyamuni's disciple. Kondanna, leader of the first convents, described the moment of his realisation: Lo! he hath passed with vigour out and on; Sloughed off hath he the dyings and the births, Wholly accomplishing the life sublime.

     Thereafter for 45 years the Lord walked the dusty plains of northern India, touching the lives of millions with his teachings. However he did not forget Sarnath. He came back to the Deer park to meditate during the months of the next monsoon and for many other such retreats.

The Ashoka Pillar:

     Sarnath gained eminence during the reign of Emperor Ashoka. The Ashoka pillar and its famous lion capital were discovered in 1904. Later Saka and Kushan monarchs also patronised Buddhist monks and promoted Buddhist art in Sarnath.

     However in the 12th century both Varanasi and Sarnath faced the first onslaught or Muslim invasion. After Qutbuddin Aibak's attack in 1194, the thriving monastery in the Sarnath lay in ruins, and the few monks who survived, fled.

     Sarnath never rose again. The faith survived other countries but Sarnath no longer echoed to the chants of the monks.

     Seven hundred years later, in 1834, a British archaeological team led by Alexander Cunningham rediscovered Sarnath, opening a window to a forgotten period of India's ancient history.

     Today the ruined stupas, broken walls of monastery cells and statues within the niches of the walls, lie within stretches of emerald lawns.

Dhamekh Stupa:

     The most impressive sight in Sarnath is the looming pile of the Dhamekh Stupa, possibly built around 500AD. It was built at the site of many earlier constructions as excavations reveal brickwork from much earlier periods. Dhamekh Stupa is a solid cylindrical tower, 33 metres in height. The borders have delicately carved geometrical and floral patterns and the figures of humans and birds.

     The base of the Stupa is made of stone with the upper areas of brickwork which probably once had a carve stone fencing.

     The present name Dhamekh shows some connection with Buddha's Dharma. This might indeed have been the stupa built by Ashoka to mark the spot where the Buddha preached the Dharnachakrapravanrtana for the first time to the five ascetics.

Dharmarajika Stupa:

     Dharmarajika Stupa marks the site where the Buddha gave his first sermon. It was broken down in the 18th century by an officer of the Maharaja of Benaras who was looking for building material for constructing a bazaar. A marble casket was found beneath the stupa during excavations by Alexander Cunningham in the late 19th century.

     Just behind the Dharmarajika Stupa are the remains of the massive Ashoka Pillar, one of the many that Emperor Ashoka set up at Buddhist sits. It is placed at the spot where the Buddha gave his first sermon and established the Sangha. The monolithic Ashoka Pillar was once crowned with the magnificent Lion Capital, which is now kept in the Sarnath Museum. The four roaring lions face the four cardinal directions symbolising the spread of the Buddha's teachings.

Mulgandhakuti Vihara:

     Mulgandhakuti Vihara marks the site where the Buddha meditated during his monsoon retreats at Sarnath. Excavations have unearthed a statue of a Bodhisattva from the 1st century AD, and a tablet on which the name of the shrine was carved. In 1922, Anagarika Dharmapala laid the foundation of a temple named Mulgandhakuti Vihara at the site. It enshrines relics of the Buddha which were discovered at Taxila. The interior has frescoes painted by a Japanese artist in 1932-35.

     Outside is the Bodhi tree and its spreading branches symbolise the return of Buddhism to India.

Chaukhandi:

     The first landmark that visitors see on their way to Sarnath from Varanasi is a high mound with the remains of a brick stupa built in the Gupta period. Today the site is called Chaukhandi. It marks the spot where the Buddha first met his five companions on arriving in Sarnath. A Mughal style octagonal tower was added by Govardhan, son of Raja Todar Mal, in 1588, to celebrate a visit by the Mughal Emperor Akbar to the city.